画报解读亚历山东大学·麦昆 Alexander McQueen’s life and work in

  • 文章来源:     发表时间: 2018-05-24 06:31:19     浏览次数:
  • 画报解读亚历山东大学·麦昆 Alexander McQueen’s life and work in pictures 图片来源/PHOTO:VOGUE.FR2010年2月11日,时尚界为亚历山东大学€€麦昆(Alexander McQueen)的悲惨去世而哀悼,这位富有远见的英国设计师在90年代和2000年代为时尚带来了1种全新、反制式的新潮。他的设计从1开始领工作服制度就具有挑衅意味,他的毕业作品系列是向电影《开膛手杰克》致敬,以人的头发作为设计特点。而他把技术与艺术相结合,凸显人类天生的表演才能,也不过滤体现人性最黑暗面的元素。让我们通过1系列的档案图片来了解1下这位天才设计师吧。On February 11, 2010, the fashion world entered into mourning f

    图片来源/PHOTO:VOGUE.FR

    2010年2月11日,时尚界为亚历山东大学€€麦昆(Alexander McQueen)的悲惨去世而哀悼,这位富有远见的英国设计师在90年代和2000年代为时尚带来了1种全新、反制式的新潮。他的设计从1开始就具有挑衅意味,他的毕业作品系列是向电影《开膛手杰克》致敬,以人的头发作为设计特点。而他把技术与艺术相结合,凸显人类天生的表演才能,也不过滤体现人性最黑暗面的元素。让我们通过1系列的档案图片来了解1下这位天才设计师吧。

    On February 11, 2010, the fashion world entered into mourning for the tragic passing of Alexander McQueen, the visionary British designer who injected fashion with a renovated, anti-establishment feeling in the ‘90s and 2000s.华晨汽车集团工作服招标
    Provocative since the very beginning - his graduate collection was dedicated to Jack the Ripper and featured human hair - McQueen combined technical artistry, a natural flair for showmanship and an unfiltered take on humanity’s darkest elements. Let's learn something about him through a series of archival images.

    1993年10月,当麦昆展现他的Nihlism系列时,模特们穿着超低腰的裤子(bumster)走了出来,透明的t恤上溅满了假血,还涂上了血红的眼妆。此次展现由于缺少品味而遭到批评,但是其中剪刀手爱德华风格的茄克及连衣裙的精确剪裁,包括创新风格取得了很多好评。《纽约时报》的Amy Spindler写道:“他的想法很难用1场秀来全市,但最少为伦敦的时尚定位身份危机提供了1个解决方案。”

    When Alexander McQueen presented his Nihlism collection in October 1993, models walked out wearing low-rise 'bumster' trousers, see-through t-shirts splattered with fake blood and smudged red eye makeup. Criticised f送葬 工作服 图片
    or its lack of taste, the show was praised for the precise tailoring of the Edwardian-inspired jackets and frock coats, and for its innovative style. "His was a hard show to take," wrote Amy Spindler in The New York Times, "but at least it offered one solution to the identity crisis of London fashion."

    图片来源/PHOTO:VOGUE.FR

    在他18年的职业生涯中,麦昆对时尚的贡献已超出他为伦敦创造的新身份。他结合了奇异、黑暗的浪漫主义和对历史、艺术、文学和电影的高度评价,这些都是来自于街头的潮流,混搭出新的朋克风格。1995年,他的苏格兰高地掠夺系列(Highland Rape collection)表现出了历史上英格兰人对苏格兰人的压迫,给模特们搭配了格子,破旧的皮革和精致的透明蕾丝花边,同时还在继续推重他设计的超低腰裤(bumster),裤子和裙子的腰部都被剪得很低,露出部份亵服。

    In his 18-year career, McQueen's contribution to fashion went beyong creating a new identity for London. 穿工作服的人图片
    He combined fantasy, dark romanticism and high冬装工作服定制 中山
    brow references to history, art, literature and film with trends born from the street, mixing high and low to write a new punk code. His 1995 Highland Rape collection tackled England's historic oppression of the Scots through models clad in tartan, ripped leather and delicate, see-through lace, while continuing to popularise his bumsters - trousers and skirt cut so low at the waist that they left part of bottom exposed.

    图片来源/PHOTO:VOGUE.FR

    麦昆高深的剪裁和技艺从未被他非正统的行动所超出,相反,每次设计有提升。他在2004年春季的作品《解救》(Deliverance)是1场华丽的表演,有羽毛的裙子、缎子裙和柔软的雪纺绸礼服。模特们把悉尼€€波拉克(Sydney Pollack)的60年代电影《孤注1掷》(They Shoot Horses, Don't they?)中的舞蹈重新演绎。他很少不触及没有争议的主题,从Voss的精神健康,到柏拉图的亚特兰蒂斯全球生态崩溃。他提出了1个观点,那就是永久不要把他的作品看得太严肃,要在黑暗主题与肆无忌惮的玩笑之间保持平衡。

    McQueen's exquisite tailoring and technical feats were never outshone by his unort酒店大堂经理工作服
    hodox presentaions; rather, each elevated the other. His Spring 2004 collection, Deliverance, was an exuberant spectacle of feathered skirts, satin dresses and soft chiffon gowns, worn by models reenacting the dances in Sydney Pollack's '60s film They Shoot Horses, Don't they?. Leaving few controversial themes untouched, from mental health in Voss to global ecological collapse in Plato's Atlantis, the desing秋季宾馆工作服
    er made a point of never taking his work too seriously, balancing its darker themes with outrageous playfulness.

    1996年春夏秀场上的凯特莫斯(图片来源/PHOTO:VOGUE.FR)

    Kate Moss in Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 1996


    1997年麦昆时装秀(图片来源/PHOTO:VOGUE.FR)

    Alexander McQueen fashion show, 1997


    1999年麦昆秀场上的超模Shalom Harlow(图片来源/PHOTO:VOGUE.FR)

    Shalom Harlow for Alexander McQueen, 1999


    1998年麦昆时装秀(图片来源/PHOTO:VOGUE.FR)

    Alexander McQueen fashion show, 1998


    1999年麦昆秋冬秀(图片来源/PHOTO:VOGUE.FR)

    Alexander McQueen Fall/Winter 1999


    2000年麦昆时装秀(图片来源/PHOTO:VOGUE.FR)

    Alexander McQueen fashion show, 2000


    2001年麦昆时装秀(图片来源/PHOTO:VOGUE.FR)

    Alexander McQueen fashion show, 2001


    2003年麦昆秋冬秀(图片来源/PHOTO:VOGUE.FR)

    Alexander McQueen Fall/Winter 2003


    2004年麦昆春夏秀(图片来源/PHOTO:VOGUE.FR)

    Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2004


    凯特莫斯在1场黑色为主题的麦昆秀上(图片来源/PHOTO:VOGUE.FR)

    Kate Moss for Alexander McQueen American Express Black


    2005年麦昆春夏秀(图片来源/PHOTO:VOGUE.FR)

    Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2005


    2006年麦昆秋冬秀场上的凯特莫斯(图片来源/PHOTO:VOGUE.FR)

    Kate Moss for Alexander McQueen Fall/Winter 2006


    2006年麦昆秋冬秀(图片来源/PHOTO:VOGUE.FR)

    Alexander McQueen Fall/Winter 2006


    2008年麦昆春夏秀(图片来源/PHOTO:VOGUE.FR)

    Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2008


    2009年麦昆春夏秀(图片来源/PHOTO:VOGUE.FR)

    Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2009


    2009年麦昆秋冬秀(图片来源/PHOTO:VOGUE.FR)

    Alexander McQueen Fall/Winter 2009


    2010年麦昆春夏秀

    Alexander McQueenSpring/Summer 2010



    2018年巴黎时装周麦昆2018/19秋冬秀



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